Bocas: a new Chapter in the Tropics

After spending a few days in Panama City to acclimatise to both the weather and the time zone, I made my way to Bocas del Toro. I initially planned to go for the more affordable option. This meant I had to make my way to Albrook bus terminal to buy a ticket in advance for a 12-hour bus journey. I had been informed by several people that the conditions on the bus are arctic, in the sense that the onboard aircon produces sub-zero temperatures. The bus arrives in Almirante on the mainland of Bocas del Toro Province from where you take a 30-minute ferry ride to Bocas Town situated on Colon Island. It might have been the jetlag or the realisation, that, although I am young at heart, I am not a 20-something-year-old backpacker, and the bus journey just seemed too much hassle. I settled for the far more convenient option instead and booked a flight online. My ticket included an allowance of two check-in bags but weight wasn’t specified. While checking in on the day of my departure, I found out I could only check in about 10 kg. Since I had considerably more, I had to pay for excess luggage. This more convenient option certainly came at a price but after take-off I arrived at the village airport of Bocas Town less than 50 minutes later.

What’s in a Town

Bocas Town is the main town of a group of islands that form the Bocas del Toro Archipelago. The Bocas Archipelago on its turn is part of Bocas del Toro Province which also includes a part of the mainland. Bocas Town itself is small, laid-back, and quite a party hub that attracts hedonists of all ages. The Archipelago is Panama’s main tourist destination for Panamanians and foreigners alike. It is great for water sports, tropical nature, beach chill,  jungle adventure and just generally good Caribbean vibes.

Once Upon a Time in Bocas del Toro

The islands of Bocas del Toro were inhabited by various indigenous tribes including the  Guaymi, Teribe and Bokota. Then plunderer- murderer Christopher Columbus and his crew showed up in the early 1500s in search of a gateway to the Pacific Ocean. Initially the Spanish weren’t that bothered with Bocas, as it didn’t have any precious resources to rob. Only when French protestants fleeing religious prosecution at home started to settle in Bocas, did the Spanish seem keen to forcefully claim what they considered theirs. Spanish militia caused considerable carnage scaring away the Huguenots and killing many of the indigenous population. Prior to that in the 17th century, Bocas was a haven for pirates. The dense jungle not only offered great hiding places for oneself and one’s treasures, the abundance of wood provided material for shipbuilding and repair. Legend has it that pirate ghosts are roaming the jungle in search of the treasures they once buried hundreds of years ago.

At the beginning of the 19th century Bocas saw an influx of wealthy English and Scottish landowners from Jamaica and San Providencia who fled these islands to avoid increased taxation. These landowners brought slaves with them and free blacks founded Bocas Town in 1826. At the end of the 19th century more Jamaicans settled on the island to work in the upcoming banana industry.  Bocas del Toro Patois, a dialect of Jamaican Patois is widely spoken in the region. In the early 20th century United Fruit Company, now called Chiquita, became an economic powerhouse providing plenty of jobs that attracted a diverse workforce including indigenous people, West-Indians and Chinese folks. This multi-culti mix is still present in Bocas today.

 A Place in the Tropics to fuel the Inner Fire 

I stayed in Bocas Town for the first two weeks while I worked and went in search of long-term accommodation. Luckily, the latter didn’t take me long as within 10 days I found a beautiful jungle dwelling on a nearby island and I made it my palace in the tropics. My settlement process has activated some considerable mental shifts. At the Castle in Koh Samui back in May I got a strong sense of what I didn’t want from my writer’s life. Here in Bocas I have gained clarity on what I do want from life in general, and how to go about it. This has significantly fuelled the inner fire which has lead to increased focus, determination and a rather overactive mind.

 

Settling in Bocas has heralded a new phase in my life, which seems to take me some mental adjusting. It’s an exciting as well as a challenging process, giving me the opportunity to grow while building the dream.