Koh Samui: Overcooked Tourist Mainstreamism

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Lush grounds at Koh Samui Airport

My Philippines adventure with ‘my boys’ Rick and Louis came to an end at Hong Kong airport where we parted ways. They returned to Amsterdam where a new chapter of their lives would await them (moving to the suburbs). I continued the travelling lifestyle and made my way to Bangkok, Thailand. I spent the night at Suvarnabhumi airport to take an early-morning plane to the island of Samui, which, I had been informed is rather touristy. I knew I would be arriving during the hottest time of the year, but how hot that time actually is, I never would’ve guessed. Koh Samui, ‘koh’ meaning ‘island’ in Thai, has the cutest and most idyllic airport I have ever landed at. After disembarking you are taken to the arrival hall by a vehicle pulling different carriages as if you were making your way through an amusement park. Before you enter the arrival hall you find a couple of ponds with some greenery on either side of a small bridge leading from the tarmac to the baggage delivery belt. The arrival hall has no walls, which gives a very breezy feel and a real sense that you just arrived in an island paradise.

Hell are the Others (and the Weather)

Samui island can certainly be considered a paradise for those masses that want a tropical, yet safe and terribly mainstream travel destination. The island has lovely beaches and beautiful nature. There is a fair amount of entertainment to be had in addition to working on your tan, snorkelling and getting shit-faced, yet don’t expect mind-blowing off-the-beaten track stuff.  In addition to foreign tourists, a lot of westerners live in Samui, the vast majority over 50. The island has very little edge and I am not sure if my decision to come here was out of stubbornness or more out of desperation.

Apparently not that long ago, Koh Samui was a cute island, where the locals lived of fishing, that turned into a backpacker’s hub. Considerably less polished, it had far more edge back in those days. Now the island is filled with resorts and far less hippy-like than neighbouring island Koh Pangan, that I visited last year.

To move away from my einzelgänger’s mode towards a more communal life, I decided to do a three-months’ writers residency based here on the island. I have a room in a big, colourful house shared with eight other residents. I definitely feel part of a community of lovely and highly interesting individuals from different corners of the earth. As I mentioned, it’s hot. Now, I can deal quite well with hot weather. I definitely prefer it to the cold, even when it’s slightly too hot. However, this month has been the hottest April since living memory and I am not enjoying myself. The house I am residing in has not been built for the heat, and as it’s so hot, I don’t sleep well, despite a large quality fan blasting at full power. Generally, I don’t like aircon; it might be cool, it is also distributes stale recycled air that dries out your skin and can give you a headache. Yet, desperate times call for desperate measures. There is one room in the house that functions as an office, that is air-conditioned and that’s where you will find me the whole day. My friends wherever in the world know that I like hot weather and since they have heard me complain about the heat, they realise that ‘that place’ must be really hot.

A few days ago we didn’t have any electricity in our neighbourhood from 8.30 in the morning until about 6 in the eve. This was announced beforehand, so we had made plans to spend the day elsewhere. It was decided to go to a beach resort where there would be wifi, so we could work, and food so we wouldn’t starve. For some reason, I had some sort of laid-back hippy beach resort in mind. However, our open-air office for the day was a resort popular with Eastern European families with young children and elderly Brits working on their tan. The food was rather average, yet quite expensive, but the wifi was solid, a lot better than at our Castle and despite screaming children I had a very productive day.

So, from an over-hyped tourist destination with great surf, I moved to a sweatshop with dodgy wifi in a lame tourist island in Thailand. At least I am boiling with wonderful people.

 

 

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